How is True Artisan Gelato Made?
In the past, gelato production involved a machine called a sorbetière, which was chilled with ice and salt. The freezing and churning process, known as mantecazione, was done manually with a long, spatula-like stick. Thankfully, technology has evolved.
Today, the "artisan gelato production process" refers to the set of operations that transforms raw materials into the finished product ready for consumption, including dosing, mixing, and processing.
There are many ways to prepare gelato, but the primary distinction is between the hot process and the cold process. In Italy, the hot process is traditionally used for milk-based flavors, while water-based fruit sorbets (sorbetti) are prepared using the cold process. However, EU "milk directives" also permit the cold process for milk-based flavors. Thanks to modern cold-soluble neutral bases, it's now possible to achieve excellent results with this method.
The 8 Fundamental Steps of Hot-Process Gelato Making
The production of high-quality artisan gelato begins with a carefully studied recipe and the use of premium raw materials and ingredients. The core steps are:
- Recipe Formulation & Dosing
- Mixing the Base
- Pasteurization
- Emulsification (Optional)
- Aging (Maturazione)
- Churning & Freezing (Mantecazione)
- Hardening (Optional)
- Storage & Display
1. Recipe Formulation and Dosing
The foundation of great gelato is the recipe (or formula). This involves the precise measurement of high-quality raw materials and compound ingredients.
2. Mixing the Base
This is the phase just before pasteurization. In the hot process, the first ingredient placed in the pasteurizer is the liquid (usually milk, or water if using powdered milk). Sugars, which have already been mixed with additives like emulsifiers and stabilizers, are slowly poured in. This creates the base mixture.
To ensure quality, a gelatiere (gelato maker) typically prepares at least a white base (for flavors like fior di latte), a yellow base (egg-based), a chocolate base, and a fruit syrup. A combination machine allows for the separate preparation of each individual flavor. In Italy, the main flavoring ingredients are often added near the end of the churning phase.
3. Pasteurization
Pasteurization is a thermal treatment that occurs simultaneously with mixing. It ensures the biological stability of the mixture by eliminating most pathogenic bacteria, which can cause spoilage. Critically, it does this without altering the gelato's sensory characteristics (taste and smell). The process involves:
- Heating the mixture to 82-85°C (180-185°F).
- Holding it at this temperature for 3 minutes under constant agitation.
- Rapidly cooling it down to 4°C (39°F).
4. Aging (Maturazione)
After pasteurization, the mixture can be kept at a constant temperature of 4°C (39°F) for approximately 6 to 12 hours. This aging phase allows all the ingredients to blend perfectly and enables the solid components to hydrate thoroughly. The result is a creamier gelato with a better structure.
5. Churning & Freezing (Mantecazione)
This is the transformative phase where the liquid mixture becomes gelato. The mantecazione process simultaneously freezes and churns the base. As it rapidly drops from a positive temperature to several degrees below zero, a portion of the water freezes into micro-crystals. The constant agitation incorporates air, creating the final dense, smooth, and pasty texture that defines artisan gelato.
6. Hardening
Depending on the machine, the gelato exits the churner at a temperature of around -8°C to -10°C (14°F to 18°F). At this point, it can be placed in a storage freezer or the display case. Optionally, it can first be placed in a blast chiller, which quickly drops the temperature to -20°C (-4°F) or lower. This hardening process freezes a larger portion of the remaining water, which prevents the loss of creaminess and volume.
7. Storage & Display
Artisan gelato must be stored in a freezer at a temperature of at least -18°C (0°F). Maintaining the cold chain is essential to preserve the gelato's structure and creaminess and to ensure a safe product for the consumer.
For serving, the gelato is moved to a display case, where it is held at the ideal serving temperature of -14°C to -15°C (5°F to 7°F).