Why Gelato Bases Matter
Swapping one gelato base for another is often a delicate decision. Even slight changes can significantly impact structure, taste, creaminess, stability, and overall performance — both in the display case and on the cone. In this article, we focus on the broad differences between gelato bases by dosage (grammage), their practical applications, and their pros and cons. We won't delve into label interpretation or rebalancing formulas — that requires mathematical expertise and professional training.
Two Main Categories: Milk-Based and Fruit-Based Bases
Gelato bases fall into two main categories:
- Milk bases: Used for classic flavors like fior di latte, chocolate, hazelnut, and more.
- Fruit bases: Designed for water-based fruit sorbets, usually free from fat and dairy.
Hybrid or universal bases do exist (especially for export markets), but they hold less interest for the Italian gelato artisan.
Fruit bases are relatively simple — typically made of sugars, stabilizers (hydrocolloids), and sometimes emulsifiers to control overrun in the absence of fat. In contrast, milk bases vary widely, from basic service formulations to highly technical blends. After all, gelato is a complex food that must combine incompatible phases — stored at sub-zero temperatures, but consumed at much warmer ones.
The Starting Point: Industrial Stabilizers (Neutro)
The precursor to all modern bases is the "industrial neutral base," or neutro, a mix of emulsifiers and stabilizers (typically in a 60:40 ratio). For milk gelato, the recommended dosage is 0.4% to 0.6% of the total mix. In a 60 kg batch, that means 240–360 grams.
For fruit sorbets, which are often made cold and per container (e.g., 3.7 kg tubs), neutros typically lack emulsifiers and are dosed at 0.3% to 0.4% — around 11–14 grams per batch. Even minor deviations in dosage (a 25% difference between 11 g and 14 g) can dramatically change the gelato’s texture, from icy and stiff (underdosed) to sticky and glossy (overdosed).
Stability, Storage, and Hygroscopic Behavior
One critical concern with industrial stabilizers, especially those without emulsifiers, is their tendency to absorb moisture from the surrounding environment — a characteristic known as hygroscopicity. Once opened, these powders may lose functionality over time, particularly in humid gelato labs. Manufacturers often combat this by recalibrating the active ingredients or selecting components with higher viscosity.
This explains the variability artisans may experience when using industrial stabilizers. Precise measurement is vital — often at pharmaceutical-level accuracy — and storage conditions can drastically affect performance, especially in summer.
Advantages and Risks of Industrial Neutros
Industrial stabilizers are cost-effective and widely used in mass production. However, in artisanal contexts, they come with higher risk, especially when used in small batches where minor measurement errors can lead to quality issues. High production volumes are often required to ensure product rotation and consistency.
In milk-based gelato, this risk is mitigated through encapsulation of hydrocolloids in the emulsifying phase. This technique protects stabilizers from moisture and controls solubility until the right temperature is reached — typically above 62°C.
From Neutro to Functional Bases
The next step in gelato base evolution is the development of functional bases. These are semi-finished products that combine stabilizers, emulsifiers, and service ingredients like dextrose or skimmed milk powder. Early on, these components were not easily sourced, making pre-mixed bases a valuable convenience.
Today, most fruit bases still serve this practical function: they allow for accurate dosing, ensure even hydration, and prevent clumping.
Enhancing Structure with Additives
To get the most out of a neutral stabilizer, artisans often add structure-enhancing supplements like:
- Milk or whey proteins
- Vegetable fibers
- Pre-emulsified fats
Used at 0.5%–2.0%, these ingredients improve creaminess and mouthfeel, giving a more artisanal quality even when using industrial stabilizers.
Base Dosages: 50g/L to 500g/L
Let’s look at gelato bases by grammage:
50g per Liter Bases
Used at around 3.5% of the mix, or 50g per liter of liquid (milk, water, or juice). In fruit sorbets, they ensure product consistency and hydration. In milk bases, they enhance stability, creaminess, and even flavor retention (e.g., for fior di latte). These bases contain various functional blocks:
- Stabilizers/emulsifiers
- Flavoring agents (sometimes)
- Binding agents (proteins/fibers)
- Carbohydrates (mono- and polysaccharides)
- Fat components (optional)
In Italy, 50g/L bases are common in fruit sorbets but less so in milk gelato. They require technical understanding for proper balance and can be used hot or cold, depending on the formulation.
However, due to their clean-label limitations and lower technological capacity, these are less ideal for large-scale or transport-sensitive production unless combined with structure supplements.
100g per Liter Bases
These are the most popular milk bases in Italy, used at ~7% of the total mix. These blends are more complex and may include glucose syrup, maltodextrins, cold-soluble hydrocolloids, pre-emulsified fats, and milk proteins. They enable quick production, ideal for emergencies, flavor testing, or side-by-side comparisons.
Because of the higher percentage of active ingredients, a deep understanding of the base’s composition is critical to achieving optimal results.
High-Dosage Bases (150g/L to 500g/L)
These ultra-concentrated bases, used at 10% to 33%, offer a high level of technological performance and user-friendliness. They reduce risk, simplify sourcing, and accelerate production — often without sacrificing quality. Some top-performing gelaterias in Italy and abroad rely on high-dosage bases for consistency and scalability.
While most high-dosage bases are designed for milk gelato, some are now available for fruit sorbets too, though usually in neutral (unflavored) form to be customized with fresh fruit and water.
Why Base Knowledge is Key for Gelato Professionals
Choosing the right gelato base is not just a matter of taste — it's a matter of science and precision. Whether you’re working with a 50g/L fruit base or a 200g/L milk blend, understanding what’s in the mix — by interpreting ingredient lists and nutritional labels — is fundamental. The more a gelato maker knows about the composition of bases and the properties of their raw materials and additives, the better their ability to make informed, strategic decisions that match their shop’s needs and elevate their final product.
Fabrizio Osti
Osticonsulting
fabrizio@osticonsulting.com